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ISTANBUL MUSEUMS
ST.SOPHIA - AYASOFYA MUSEUM
Aya Sophia was, for nearly a thousand years, the largest enclosed space
in the world, and still seen as one of the world’s most important architectural
monuments. It is one of Turkey’s most popular attractions, drawn by the sheer
spectacle of its size, architecture, mosaics and art.
For 916 years it was a church, then a mosque for 481 years, and since 1935 has
been a museum. Thought to have been constructed by Emperor Konstantinos I (324
– 337) it was burned down during a revolt. Rebuilt by Emperor Theodosium II,
it was opened for worship in 415 and once again was burned to the ground, during
the Nika revolts of 532.
Emperor Iustanianus (527 – 565) wanted to construct something even bigger than
the original two and appointed architects Isidoros from Miletos, and Anthemios
from Tralles to build the Aya Sophia which still stands. Columns, heads, marble
and coloured stones were imported to Istanbul from ancient cities in Anatolia
for the purpose.
The construction began on 23 December 532, and was completed exactly five years
later. The main, central section measured 100m x 70m, covered with a 55m high
dome which was a mammoth 30m in diameter – appearing to be a great feat of design.
The mosaics are of great importance, and the oldest ones are dominated by geometric
and plant motifs decorated with gold.
The worst desecration of the church was in 1204, ransacked by Catholic soldiers
during the Fourth Crusade. In 1453, after a failure of the Byzantine Church
to fend off the Turks, Mehmet the Conqueror captured the city, rode into Aya
Sofia and immediately turned it into a mosque. It was repaired several times,
and Islamic ornamentation added, for example an extract of the Koran by calligrapher
Izzet Efendi inscribed on the dome. The other reminders of its previous status
as a mosque include huge wooden plaques bearing the names of Allah, the Prophet
Mohammed and the first four caliphs.
The marble and mosaics remain the most interesting aspects today. The columns
supporting the gallery are made from antique marble, and in the western gallery
is the green marble which marks the position of the throne of the Empress. The
impressive figurative mosaics include Virgin and Child flanked by two emperors,
dating back to the late 10th century, and one depicting Christ, the Virgin,
and St John the Baptists. Even though there is partial damage, the haunting
images on their faces remain as strong as ever.
Opening hours: 09.30 - 16.30, daily except Monday.
MUSEUM OF TURKISH AND ISLAMIC ART
Built in 1524 by Ibrahim Pasa, the Grand Vizier to Suleyman the Magnificent,
this was originally a palace and the grandest private residences in the Ottoman
Empire – and one of the few which have survived. Some of it, however, was destroyed
and rebuilt in stone to the original designs in 1843.
Now home to the museum, this is considered one of the finest collections of
Islamic art in the world, with a superb display of ceramics, metalwork, miniatures,
calligraphy and textiles, as well as some of the oldest carpets in the world.
Equally as impressive is the grace of the building, with the central courtyard
giving something of an insight into the atmosphere of the residence.
Opposite is the Great Hall, which houses a collection of Turkish carpets, with
exquisite antique carpets and kilims and one of the finest collections in the
world, the oldest exhibit dating back to 13th century.
Opening hours: 09.00 – 17.00, closed Mondays
YEREBATAN SARNICI (CISTERN)
Nearby Aya Sofia is the 6th century Byzantine underground Basilica cistern,
with 335 massive Corinthian columns supporting the immense chamber’s fine brick
vaulting. This is one of several buried into the city’s foundations, and the
first to have been excavated and renovated. Thought to have been built in the
4th century by the emperor Constantine, then enlarged two centuries later, it
was supplied with water from Belgrade Forest, amd supplied it to the Great Palace
and Topkapi Palace.
It fell into disuse and was then restored in 1987 with the mud and water removed,
and narrow raised pathways providing easy access for visitors. It is the largest
covered cistern in the city, measuring 140 by 70 metres.
Opening hours: 09.00 - 17.00 closed Tuesdays.
MOSAIC MUSEUM
The Mosaic Museum preserves in situ exceptionally fine 5th and 6th century
mosaic pavements from the Grand Palace of the Byzantine emperors. Because of
the way they are exhibited, it is easy to understand their size and scale especially
because many of them can be viewed from a catwalk above.
Opening hours: 09.30 – 17.00, closed Tuesdays.
KARIYE MUSEUM
This is actually Kariye Mosque, once the 11th century church of St Saviour
in Chora, is considered to be the most important Byzantine monument in Istanbul,
after Aya Sofia. Whilst unremarkable in its architecture, the interior walls
are decorated with superb 14th century mosaics. Illustrating scenes from the
life of Christ and the Virgin Mary, these brilliantly colored paintings embody
the vigour of Byzantine art. The restored wooden houses in the surrounding area
are a good place for relaxation and refreshment.
The church was probably built in the early 12th century, of which only the nave
and central apse remain. Theodore Metochites rebuilt it between 1316 and 1321,
the same years from which the mosaics and frescoes date, which depict the life
of Christ in picture-book fashion. There is a series of mosaics in the form
of devotional panels in the narthexes, the theme of which is reflected in the
frescoes in the nave and funerary chapel.
Opening hours: 09.30 – 16.30, closed Wednesdays.
MILITARY MUSEUM
Highlight of this museum is definitely the Mehter Takimi, the Ottoman military
band, which performs every afternoon between 15.00 – 16.00. It also has a good
collection of Ottoman military memorabilia, like the cotton and silk tents used
by the sultans at war, and armour and weaponry like heavily decorated jambiyah
daggers.
The band, which originated in 1289, became an institution which came to symbolise
the power and independence of the Ottoman empire, and these musicians, who were
janissaries, always accompanied the Sultans into battle. But quite apart from
their benefit on the battlefield, they came to create new musical styles in
Europe, and even influencing Mozart and Beethoven.
Opening hours: 09.00 – 17.00, closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
RAHMI KOC INDUSTRY MUSEUM
The museum is set in an Ottoman-period building, an 18th century factory
which produced anchors and their chains. It was recently converted, although
has retained many of its original features, and restored by Rahmi Koc, one of
Turkey’s most powerful industrialists. It was essentially done so he could house
his private collection of models, machines and vehicles which he had collected
from all over Europe, and exhibits include original penny-farthing bicycles,
a ship’s bridge, and an engine from the Kalender steam ferry. The museum is
trying to raise the Australian navy’s first submarine sink of gallipoli in World
War I.
Opening hours: 10.00 – 17.00, closed Mondays
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